Just Back from St. Moritz
What I love. What I recommend (because I’ve tried it). And the real vibe of one of my favorite alpine towns.
I first started going to St. Moritz seven years ago for my fabulous hotel client, The Kulm Hotel, and it was on one of those trips that I met my now-fiancé. I met him the old-fashioned way, on the dance floor, at The Dracula's Ghost Riders Club (Drac’s), the ultimate members-only club in Europe. IYKYK.
One of the things I love most about St. Moritz is that it’s incredibly friendly for non-skiers. I don’t ski and I never feel like I’m missing out. Between lake walks, long lunches, shopping, spa days, people watching, and lively nightlife, there’s always something happening—on and off the slopes.
Getting there is part of the magic.
Take the train from Zurich through the Engadin valley and reserve a seat in the Gourmino carriage for ultimate chill, Swiss fare, and spectacular views along the way.
It’s one of the most beautiful train journeys in Europe.
Now, I know the winter season is wrapping up, but it’s never too early to start planning for winter 26/27.
Keep this guide handy (it will also live on my Instagram @melaniebrandman for future reference) and feel free to reach out when you start planning your trip.
The key anchor moments of the season are Snow Polo St. Moritz, White Turf St. Moritz, and The I.C.E. St. Moritz.
Think lots of fur, fast cars, jewels, and eye-opening fashion.
If you think you’re wearing too much or going over the top, you’re not.
And when winter wraps up? Come back in summer.
Swap snow boots for hiking boots—the Engadin valley is spectacular.
This isn’t your typical tourist roundup. It’s my personal edit: where to stay, where to eat, where to linger, and how to do St. Moritz properly.
MY 6 INSIDER TIPS
Book ahead. Always. St. Moritz fills up quickly in peak season, and the best restaurants and mountain terraces book out days—sometimes weeks—in advance.
Lunch is the event. In St. Moritz, lunch on the mountain is often more important than dinner. Book ahead—especially Paradiso.
The lake is the center of everything. Walk it in the morning or at sunset. In winter it’s frozen and magical; in summer it sparkles.
Plan around the big weekends. Snow Polo St. Moritz, White Turf St. Moritz, and The I.C.E. St. Moritz completely transform the town. Think fur coats, fast cars and a fascinating international crowd.
Après starts early. A “quick lunch” on the mountain can easily turn into dancing by mid-afternoon.
You don’t have to ski. St. Moritz is one of the most non-skier-friendly winter towns in the Alps—long lunches, shopping, spas, and nightlife mean you never feel like you’re missing out.
STAY
Kulm Hotel: The grand dame of St. Moritz and where winter tourism began. Classic alpine elegance with spectacular lake views.
Badrutt’s Palace Hotel: The icon. Legendary service, glamorous history, and the social heart of St. Moritz.
Suvretta House: Feels like a private alpine estate. Grand, traditional, and one of the best true ski-in, ski-out hotels.
Carlton Hotel St. Moritz: An intimate all-suite hotel perched above the lake with one of the best spas in the Alps.
GRACE LA MARGNA ST MORITZ: St. Moritz’s newest luxury arrival—historic charm meets contemporary design and a fantastic dining scene.
EAT
Lunch
Kulm Country Club: Upstairs terrace overlooking the outdoor ice rink. Norman Foster design and one of my favorite spots for lunch—and cocktails at altitude.
Langosteria: Italian, chic, buzzy. Think crudo, lobster pasta, and an excellent wine list. Milan energy in the mountains.
Paradiso: Ski-in. Sun-drenched terrace. Champagne. Music. The ultimate St. Moritz mountain lunch.
White Marmot: High up on Corviglia with breathtaking Engadin views. Stylish alpine dining with a fantastic terrace.
Hotel Restaurant Salastrains: Laid-back alpine terrace above town. Relaxed mountain lunch with incredible scenery.
Dinner
Chesa Veglia: Historic alpine charm at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Candlelight, wood interiors, and classic St. Moritz atmosphere.
Amaru: Vibrant Latin American flavors, great cocktails, and a lively crowd. Located inside the Kulm Hotel.
La Coupole - Matsuhisa: Sleek Japanese-Peruvian cuisine inside Badrutt’s Palace. Sophisticated and glamorous.
La Scarpetta: Elegant Italian with a modern touch. Refined but relaxed — perfect for a chic dinner.
SamigoFuel: Fun, energetic, and a bit of a scene. Asian-inspired dishes, cocktails, and a lively crowd.
La Baracca: Wild fun...and I may have done some table dancing. A St. Moritz institution with a great wine list.
Pavarotti Wine Bar St. Moritz: A beloved St. Moritz classic. Warm Italian hospitality and excellent pasta. Super casual. I often go just for a cheese plate and a glass of wine.
NIGHTLIFE
The Dracula's Ghost Riders Club (Drac’s): The most legendary club in St. Moritz. Private, late-night, and always a scene. If you know, you know. Get friendly with a member for guaranteed access.
King’s Social House: An icon of St. Moritz nightlife. Glamorous crowd and dancing late into the night.
Samigo Fuel: Part restaurant, part party—through the vending machine. Expect DJs, cocktails, and a fun international crowd.
THINGS TO DO
The Cresta Run: Watch the daredevils fly down the historic toboggan chute, thrilling and slightly terrifying.
Snow Polo: Polo played on the frozen lake. Glamorous, dramatic, and uniquely St. Moritz.
The I.C.E.: Classic cars on the frozen lake—one of the chicest winter events in Europe.
White Turf: Horse racing on the frozen lake with fur coats, Champagne, and spectacular views.
Walk the Frozen Lake: Simple but magical — especially at sunset.
Taxi Bob through the SMBC: 75 seconds of complete terror. Hitting 4G force through the bends. Follow it up with bratwurst and beer while watching others fly through Horseshoe.
Horse-Drawn Sleigh: Less cheesy than you think. Romantic when the weather and snow cooperate.
